To Edo and back again.

The Nakasendo trail from Magome to Tsumago is a pleasant 7 km stroll along cobblestone paths, lined by golden rice patties and swaths of fragrant hinoki forests.  The trail was used during the Edo Period (1603-1867) connecting Kyoto with Edo (Tokyo).  It is an amazing hike, and perfect for those who are moderately fit.  We started the hike in Magome and ended in Tsumago, which is steeper at the front of the hike, but ends with a gradual descent into Kiso Valley.  Both towns have been beautifully preserved, with portions reserved only for pedestrians.

Magome (below) boasts sweeping views of the Japanese Alps.  The town is a fun and touristy spot. You can buy an array of snacks, clothing, walking sticks, and other souvenirs.  For those who are shopaholics, it is better perhaps to start in the quieter Tsumago, and meander towards this mecca.  Heavy bags make for harder times on the trail (at least that is what I learned from playing Oregon Trail in 5th grade).  While the buildings are still preserved with the original Edo architecture, you are sure to find good souvenirs.


The Kiso River is perhaps the cleanest water I have ever seen, and the onsen we stayed at at the end of our hike (Fukinomori) has bubbling mountain spring water that feels like silk on your skin!

 Stunning panoramic view of the Alps.

We went in late fall (November 20th weekend). There are still some beautiful autumn colors, but most have peaked.

 This (left) is a picture from Tsumago.  It is a lot quieter than the bustling Magome.  We didn't have much time to explore, as we needed to catch the shuttle to our ryokan.

 Of course, the first thing we do when we arrive is change into our yukata and head toward the baths.

 Ryokans are famed for relaxation.  In order to relax, you have to wear a yukata, take a dip, then head to dinner.  The term for a meal at a ryokan is "keiseki ryori" and in most places consists of an array of local cuisine.  We asked for no meat and only vegetables and fish.  The five course meal was not disappointing.

 The drink in the red is a blueberry sake, made in Kiso Valley.

 Japanese cuisine always has unique and tasty ways of preparing tofu.