A day in the life of a Hobbit

In September we went to Hakone, a scenic town that takes its namesake from the volcano upon which it sits.  http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5200.html

Hakone is famous for its hotsprings and can easily reached from Tokyo for day trip.  We wound up staying for two at a little ryokan called Yamagaso.  https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/ryokan-single/?ryokan=Senkei+Annex+Yamagaso

We mostly lounged and ate, and didn't do any hiking, as most of the park was closed.  Last spring, Mr. Hakone gave a rumble and coughed up some ash, which resulted in the closure of most of the park for most of 2015, including during our trip.  That's okay. I'd rather not wind up like the poor folks of Pompeii when Mt. Vesuvius got indigestion.

 

Of course, staying at a Ryokan means stuffing your face and soaking in the onsen! The spread was about a five course meal comprised of small dishes featuring local cuisine.

 

 The world's smallest potato!

 This was the best tempura I've ever had! They had some sort of lemon salt coating. So yummm...

So Japan is a land of short and thin (by American standards) people.  Jeff had some trouble with the accommodations.

Yes, this was the size of the doorway.  But you just have to duck.

It's all about cute.

 I've been pretty lucky to eat some good food in my life in a variety of places.  But I truly find my food home in Japan. Not only is the food tasty, but it is aesthetically pleasing and pleasant.  Take for example, the donut frog to the left.

And what about the bear, holding a hamburger.

Inside the cup, he says "I have a hamburger". How cute is that? The frog and bear make my day.

 This is one of my absolute favorite desserts--the taiyaki.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taiyaki  Why is this custard-filled goodness in the shape of a sea bream? I don't know but I love it!

On the left, we have ube (purple yam) ice cream and as some sort of tart thing (in yellow) to the side.  Very tasty.  Mochis are my life. And below we have green tea ice cream with mochi balls and some cornflakes for added texture.

 The grapes here are fantastic. They are full-bodied with flavor, beautiful and expensive--and worth every Yen.

















I haven't tried these shapely watermelons, but I'm sure they are delicious.

 Cake and flowers at Aoyama Flower Market, a delightful place to stop for a shopping break in the heart of Tokyo.

To Edo and back again.

The Nakasendo trail from Magome to Tsumago is a pleasant 7 km stroll along cobblestone paths, lined by golden rice patties and swaths of fragrant hinoki forests.  The trail was used during the Edo Period (1603-1867) connecting Kyoto with Edo (Tokyo).  It is an amazing hike, and perfect for those who are moderately fit.  We started the hike in Magome and ended in Tsumago, which is steeper at the front of the hike, but ends with a gradual descent into Kiso Valley.  Both towns have been beautifully preserved, with portions reserved only for pedestrians.

Magome (below) boasts sweeping views of the Japanese Alps.  The town is a fun and touristy spot. You can buy an array of snacks, clothing, walking sticks, and other souvenirs.  For those who are shopaholics, it is better perhaps to start in the quieter Tsumago, and meander towards this mecca.  Heavy bags make for harder times on the trail (at least that is what I learned from playing Oregon Trail in 5th grade).  While the buildings are still preserved with the original Edo architecture, you are sure to find good souvenirs.


The Kiso River is perhaps the cleanest water I have ever seen, and the onsen we stayed at at the end of our hike (Fukinomori) has bubbling mountain spring water that feels like silk on your skin!

 Stunning panoramic view of the Alps.

We went in late fall (November 20th weekend). There are still some beautiful autumn colors, but most have peaked.

 This (left) is a picture from Tsumago.  It is a lot quieter than the bustling Magome.  We didn't have much time to explore, as we needed to catch the shuttle to our ryokan.

 Of course, the first thing we do when we arrive is change into our yukata and head toward the baths.

 Ryokans are famed for relaxation.  In order to relax, you have to wear a yukata, take a dip, then head to dinner.  The term for a meal at a ryokan is "keiseki ryori" and in most places consists of an array of local cuisine.  We asked for no meat and only vegetables and fish.  The five course meal was not disappointing.

 The drink in the red is a blueberry sake, made in Kiso Valley.

 Japanese cuisine always has unique and tasty ways of preparing tofu.